NWC – seventh Feb – Malbec
After our foray into some little identified grapes final week we have been in acquainted territory with one in every of this nation’s favorite grapes, Malbec. My notion might be tainted by how ubiquitous it’s and I don’t see it as too ‘critical’ however might a full tasting on it change my thoughts?
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Duo du Midi, 2022 is a 50/50 mix with Cabernet Franc from the Languedoc. Fairly mild ruby within the glass with a crimson fruited nostril and a few carbonic maceration notes, although not full banana or bubblegum. The palate was just a little extra combined berry and forest fruits, possibly a contact of elderberry bitterness. At £7.25 from The Wine Society I used to be shocked at how mild the wine was and extra dominated by the cab franc however fairly content material on the worth for cash.
From the Languedoc to Bergerac now and Le Gloire de Mon Pere, Château Tour des Gendres, 2020. One other mix however 53% Malbec, 35% Cab Sauv and 12% Cab Franc. Way more concentrated and purple within the glass though a muted nostril which I struggled to choose a lot from. The palate was just a little extra outlined with black cherry however nonetheless fairly one dimensional, some dry and dusty tannins maybe missing some acidity too. £13.50
Our first 100% Malbec, and its ancestral house of Cahors. Marcel Malbec, du Cèdre, Vin de France 2022 didn’t appear typical of different Malbec’s from this area. It had a pure wine nostril of crimson apple, the palate fast stalky with tart crimson currants and cranberries. Very a lot on the entry degree at £7.75 however nowhere close to as interesting as wine 1 which was equally low cost.
To the Loire. There’s a good bit of Malbec round these elements though identified regionally at Cot. This was Cuvée Albert Denis, Domaine de la Renaudie 2021 from Touraine. A bit of candy spice on the nostril right here and customarily extra typical of Malbec however nonetheless fairly easy on the palate. One of the best stability of any wine to this point, although little competitors frankly.
The recognition of Malbec on this nation is primarily wines from Argentina and our first of the night was a younger one from the Uco, Quimay 2022. Instantly extra expressive and intense than these earlier than, black cherry and sweetly spiced nostril. The palate was a juicy ripe mixture of blackcurrant and black berry with just a few inexperienced notes. Fairly quick in size however what I count on of a £14 Malbec.
Petit Clos, Clos Triguedina, 2020 took us again to Cahors though with 15% of Merlot alongside Malbec (appellation guidelines state 70% Malbec required if you happen to’re ). Initially I used to be having fun with the nostril, the primary of the night to have some perfumed notes and initially the palate was fairly open with black fruits however the wine actually lacked acidity and the center and finish of the palate turned soupy. £12.95
Apparently Weinert Malbec Mendoza 2012 is already a little bit of a cult basic, not less than amongst Wine Soceity clients. It’s simply offered out however they’ve been promoting this classic till just lately at £15.50 and it actually was a step above something we’d had earlier than. It was additionally not your common Malbec, having spent could years in giant oak foudres and solely just lately being launched. Every part put me in thoughts of a superb Rioja Reserva. Candy cedarwood nostril, contact of leather-based and on the palate clear aged and previous oak however nonetheless and a few dried fruit and fig to go with the nonetheless singing berry notes. Nice worth and I can see its reputation with with extra critical and informal drinkers.
Sticking in South America El Esteco, Don David, Malbec, 2021 felt just like the type of wine from this continent that actually doesn’t get me excited. A good quantity of oak however in a contemporary/younger Bordeaux type. Not a lot fruit on the nostril, some stewed strawberry. Some inexperienced pepper on the palate together with cherry and just a little natural notice. Probably the most interesting a contact of bitter chocolate on the end. £16
Our remaining wine from over within the Americas and it was good to strive one thing with a little bit of age. If we have been in Rioja Reserva territory with the Weinert this was Gran Reserva degree. Once more a present launch the Clos des Fous, Tocao, 2013 had baggage of vanilla on the nostril with possibly a contact of VA. The palate was very nicely balanced and many fascinating notes together with; blueberry, plum, espresso, chocolate, liquorice. £26 and my most likely WOTN
To complete again to Cahors for a trio, firstly from a producer we had earlier. Clos Triguedina, Cuvée Status Probus, 2018 was lastly in true French Malbec type. Darkish and brooding with an oaky prune nostril the palate did comprise notes of clove alongside a core of blackberry fruits. I believe I would favor this with extra evolution, its candy spiced traits not my favorite for now. £38
Georges Vigouroux Chateau de Mercues ‘Cuvee Malbec 6666’, 2018 felt like a extra trendy incarnation and a sign of the altering type in Cahors? Are producers attempting to make a extra worldwide type, just like South America? The nostril was dominated by a brand new oak profile, blackberry and anise working by way of and actually fairly grippy tannin. It tasted like posh wine making and customarily folks on the tasting actually loved it however it simply didn’t have a lot character or terrior to essentially set it aside. £30
Georges Vigouroux Château de Haute-Serre – Georges, 2019 was from the identical secure however a special beast all collectively. This positively divided opinion throughout the room, maybe as a result of we have been far out of your typical Malbec character and likewise at £45 it was the most costly wine of the night. Many disagreed however I believed it was by far essentially the most fascinating and sophisticated wine we had tried. It required critical thought to unpick the character on present. First within the glass there was some raisin and fig characters however later because it developed I received some fragrance and even curry leaf. The palate retained just a little of that spice however much less complexity, cranberry and redcurrant notes.
Total an fascinating reminder that there may be many kinds of Malbec apart from a fruit bomb that’s so ubiquitous and a few wonderful wines at good worth from The Wine Society which might be my most tempting purchases from this vary
