Chris, initially from the UK, moved to Thailand 29 years in the past to be together with his Thai spouse. Collectively they constructed The Gallery Restaurant and Gold Bar on the island of Koh Tao, perched on a hill, which can also be their residence.
From right here you possibly can take pleasure in beautiful sundown views—even on a cloudy day like at this time.
The restaurant opens solely on Mondays, Wednesdays, and Fridays, providing a set menu known as Belief the Chef. Friends are requested to reach at 6 p.m. to observe the sundown; dinner begins at 7 p.m. and runs till about 10 p.m. The web site explains clearly what to anticipate (and what not), and Chris requires you to learn and conform to this earlier than confirming your reservation.
The set menu consists of about 10 programs and prices THB 3,200 per particular person (round €88). This was proper up our alley, as we all the time “belief the chef”—at the least when eating at a sure degree—and like chef’s or tasting menus over à la carte.
Chris had requested for the primary names of all visitors, and once we arrived at our desk it grew to become clear why:
He had created customized coasters with our names.
Chris launched each dish intimately, explaining its origin, the elements used, and the well being advantages of the herbs. He confirmed one thing I had already seen: in Thailand, the herb typically options prominently within the identify of a dish reasonably than the protein. What I’d name “stir-fried rooster with basil” is just “stir-fried basil.” Similar to at Bucha, the place the “banana blossom salad” additionally included giant steamed prawns that weren’t even talked about on the menu.
The amuse-bouche was Maa Hor (ม้าฮ้อ), which Chris described as a “palate opener” to awaken the style buds. Originating from northern Thailand, it consists of a slice of contemporary, candy pineapple topped with a wealthy pork and peanut meatball. The identify means “rocking horse,” because the pineapple slice is formed like a rocking chair. As all the time in Thai delicacies, this chunk balances candy, salty, bitter, and spicy flavors.
The restaurant provides wines solely from one Thai vineyard: Granmonte, seemingly one of the best within the nation. We had a Viognier, and it was surprisingly good, contemplating Thailand lies effectively exterior the climatic zone appropriate for wine manufacturing. The wine was effectively balanced, with traditional Viognier aromas complemented by vanilla notes from oak.
The primary dish was a well-known appetizer from the North known as Miang Kham (เมี่ยงคำ). This one-bite snack is assembled by folding a wild betel leaf right into a cone and filling it with toasted coconut, ginger, shallot, lime, dried shrimp, roasted peanut, chili, and a sauce of caramelized palm sugar with fish sauce. What set this aside from the Miang Kham I’ve had earlier than within the Netherlands was the distinctive high quality of the elements—particularly the toasted coconut, dried shrimp, betel leaves, and the palm sugar. Chris defined that this palmyra palm sugar is difficult to return by, even in Thailand. In comparison with common coconut palm sugar, palmyra sugar has a deeper, extra advanced sweetness with delicate caramel and smoky notes.
We continued with Laap Kua (ลาบคั่ว), served on a rice cracker. The rice cracker wasn’t as crispy because the one at Bucha, maybe due to the very excessive humidity right here. Chris defined that rice crackers have been initially invented to make use of up rice that had caught to the clay pot wherein it had been cooked and stored heat (although not made that manner on the restaurant).
Laap Kua is from Northern Thailand and differs from common Laap from Isaan within the northeast. This model was made with beef and contained 19 herbs and spices. Laap from Isaan is contemporary and fiery, whereas Laap Kua is earthier, extra fragrant, and fewer bitter. I’ve had it earlier than in Northern Thailand, and this rendition was extra advanced and chic.
The following dish was Gratung Tong (กระทงทอง), a rooster and cashew household recipe of the chef. The identify interprets to “gold cup”, which refers back to the delicate pastry shell and to not the rooster and cashew filling.
The next dish was Som O Choose Ga Glua (ส้มโอพริกกะเกลือ), pomelo with salt and pepper sauce. This was a Siamese ruby pomelo, which has a sweeter taste than a daily pomelo. It paired superbly with the salt and pepper sauce and was accompanied by a toasted cashew nut and a crispy deep-fried squid ring.
From the restaurant we may see fishing boats within the bay utilizing vivid lights to draw squid—a way that stops working as quickly as the total moon rises. The squid for this dish was sourced from a type of native fishermen and was due to this fact exceptionally contemporary.
We continued with Yum Bai Mon Grob (ยำใบหม่อน), a battered and fried mulberry leaf topped with a salad of banana shrimp. The identify actually means “crispy mulberry leaf salad,” so as soon as once more the dish is called after the herb. Chris defined that one of these fried leaf was historically used as an edible plate to serve meals. It was completely crispy, whereas the salad was reasonably candy.
The ultimate dish earlier than a brief break was Yum Bai Bua Bok (ยำใบบัวบก), a salad with Centella leaves, often known as Indian Pennywort. The leaves have a barely bitter, natural style, balanced within the dish by the sweetness of palm sugar and the nuttiness of roasted peanuts. It was served with a little bit of duck egg and two white Malaysian prawns.
After a brief break within the Gold Bar, we resumed our meal with Tom Bai Chamuang Het Saam Yang (ต้มใบชะมวงเห็ดสามอย่าง). This conventional soup from southern Thailand has a particular bitter, earthy, and salty taste. The bitter, fragrant, and barely fruity notes come from the leaves of the Chamuang tree. The chef even supplied a contemporary leaf subsequent to the soup so we may style it by itself. The earthy taste comes from three sorts of mushrooms.
The principle course was Gang Kua Luuk Glouy (แกงคั่วลูกกล้วย), a natural curry with immature bananas (starchy reasonably than candy), white snapper, miniature eggplants, and a butterfly pea flower. The curry was very elegant and effectively balanced. I used to be particularly impressed by the miniature eggplants, which had a a lot nicer taste than traditional—much less bitter, extra fruity, and with a nice ‘pop’ texture. The chef defined this was as a result of they have been freshly picked from her backyard and blanched for 3 minutes.
The dessert was Saku Dton (เปียกสาคูต้น). That is constructed from starch that’s freshly extracted from the pith of tropical palms (quite a lot of work for the chef) reasonably than factory-made tapioca pearls. It additionally included the traditional Thai dessert parts of coconut milk and a pinch of salt.
We’ve had an exquisite night at Gallery Restaurant. All of the meals was scrumptious. The web site states: “The spice ranges of every course are created by the Chef based on conventional tastes utilizing all the unique herbs and spices, some dishes are spicier than others, we won’t alter the spice ranges.” This made me assume there could be very spicy dishes with quite a lot of chili, however there was hardly any chili warmth. The dishes have been all effectively balanced within the Thai custom.
If I needed to provide a critique, it could be that the steadiness was typically on the candy aspect for my palate and that the dishes have been served lukewarm (preheated plates would assist). The reasons by Chris have been each entertaining and academic. It is extremely clear he loves each the chef and Thai meals very a lot. The service was flawless, and the tempo of the night was good.
As this expertise has some putting similarities to our dinner at Locus Native Meals Lab in Chiang Rai, it is sensible to check the 2. At Gallery Restaurant all of the dishes are conventional, reasonably than partly revolutionary like at Locus. Each eating places showcase Thai elements and culinary traditions, however Locus focuses on the North, whereas Chris and the chef journey throughout Thailand to find recipes from throughout the nation. Each eating places provide intensive commentary on all of the dishes in unaccented English, however at Locus it’s achieved by the chef (with the sous cooks doing the cooking), whereas right here the reasons got by the chef’s husband (with the chef laborious at work within the kitchen).
What units The Gallery Restaurant aside from most different Thai eating places we’ve visited is the standard of the elements, the precision of the preparations, and the authenticity of the recipes. And naturally the reasons and the gorgeous setting of the restaurant.
