There are 10 bar seats at Hermos Peix (Seafood Gracia). Tall wood stools with hard-plaited seats are pulled up underneath a shallow lip of a bar. The entrance ft of the stools stability on a coated gutter of brackish sludge. The murky water drains from the melting ice show of the adjoining fishmonger. You see Hermos Peix is within the Llibertat Market in Gràcia.
It doesn’t matter if you happen to come early or late within the service, you will see that a skinny huddle of individuals shuffling from one foot to the opposite, ready to have a flip on the bar.
The primary time I am going there may be one chef on the sizzling station and one on the chilly—a cherubic server with a curly bob and flushed cheeks. The Italian clients subsequent to me ask her if she is Italian. “No, that’s Sara, she’s on vacation. I’m a Pubillana. Ah, and that’s the particular sauce that makes this place distinctive. Hermos Peix is the third enterprise of Alexis Peñalver. The primary two are the well-known La Pubilla, adopted by Additional Bar.
Even with out that perception, it’s obvious that Hermos is nice. From the AllCaps menu on the aluminium-clad column on the left. To the tight choreography with which the cooks transfer within the galley kitchen. Carlos, the one on sizzling, has a cool strut, and a baseball cap worn backwards so a tuft of hair pokes out cartoon-like. He has 3 piercings in every earlobe, all hoops aside from a dangling turquoise quantity that swings pendulum-like each time he dips down into the fridge.
Recently, I’ve been to a collection of recent eating places which have delivered on inside and repair however left me wanting extra from the dishes. Notably on the new greater costs factors that appear to be changing into the norm. The ajo blanco (13€) at Hermos Peix is a right away balm to my sustained irritation. The chilly almond soup is garnished with micro leaves, inexperienced swirls of herb oil, and rectangles of smoked eel and lumpfish caviar. Hidden beneath are biscuit-brown toasted breadcrumbs and a mound of candy fruit. I’m in awe of dishes like this when all the weather chosen play off one another so effectively. Dish two is a trio of scallops with sauteed asparagus and shitake mushrooms.
The second time I am going the chilly starter chef has disappeared. Once I enquire I’m met with a grimace so I don’t insist. Sara is again from vacation and alternately flexing her sommelier’s muscle after which her server muscle. “She’s unimaginable” the Catalan diner subsequent to me volunteers “She at all times delights me along with her decisions.” I nod and sheepishly sip my Mahon.
Regardless of being the one man standing, Carlos is managing. He’s transferring sooner than on the primary go to however the kitchen continues to be firmly in management. At one level he grabs the telephone and rattles off opening hours whereas reaching for the kitchen tongs and utilizing the dripping water on them to splash a number of drops on the razor clams scorching on the hottop to coax them open. They oblige instantly. The lengthy mollusc’s translucent flesh corporations up and goes opaque.
On this go to, I’ve a plate of ceviche that appears like edible confetti with tiny cubes of purple and inexperienced pepper. And the trio of sardines butterflied open and served on a mattress of breadcrumbs and nuts.
Even earlier than wrapping up, I do know there might be a 3rd go to. That is despite the fact that I depart with an imprint of the bar stools, weave on the again of my thighs. As a result of I’ll at all times commerce consolation for meals.
Hermós Peix (Seafood Gracia)
Mercat de la Llibertat
Plaça de la Llibertat, Gràcia
instagram.com/hermosbardepeix
We loved this text by Paula Mourenza on Culinary Backstreets, she at all times is aware of the backstory of native eating places.
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