It is commonly 5.30am after we drive alongside the By way of Appia Antica, on our solution to Ciampino airport and often working late. Rattling over basalt cobbles smoothed by 21 centuries of visitors, and previous excessive, stone partitions overhung with timber and hiding villas and catacombs, it looks like time journey earlier than extra journey, on the 6.50am flight.
In-built 312BC, By way of Appia was the primary lengthy street constructed particularly to move troops south, and was later prolonged so far as Brindisi in Puglia. After the autumn of the Roman Empire, the as soon as nice consular street declined: some elements have been left to go wild, others integrated into different roads. Nevertheless, sections of the traditional street, such because the stretch leaving Rome, remained an vital route for individuals and issues going out and in of the town.
One of many vital issues entering into was wine, made for greater than 21 centuries now, from grapes grown within the fertile, volcanic soil round a gaggle of cities known as Castelli Romani on the foot of the cool, enchanting Alban hills: frascati, marino, albano, genzano, grottaferrata, ariccia to call however a couple of. Whereas white wines produced from grapes corresponding to malvasia and trebbiano are carefully related to this space, the immense vineyards have at all times produced crimson grapes, too: cesanese, aleatico, sangiovese, merlot and montepulciano. Cesanese specifically, which many consider to be a grape that’s indigenous to the Lazio area and named after the city of Cesano, will be fantastic, violet-coloured and tastes of black cherries, rose and juniper, and likewise recent, relatively than plodding. Additionally, making an allowance for the simplistic however efficient concept that what grows collectively goes collectively, cesanese is an effective match for the meals of Lazio and Rome. It’s also the crimson wine we frequently drink at house, so it’s what I used for as we speak’s recipe, spaghetti ubriachi con vino rosso e cipolle, which interprets as “drunk spaghetti”, though I desire “merry” with crimson wine and onion.
The precept right here is like Venetian onion and anchovy “salsa” in that the onion shouldn’t be fried however stewed, first in butter and olive oil, then in a beneficiant quantity of wine, which reduces, leaving the onion comfortable, creamy and the color of bishops’ socks. You should use crimson onions, however you then received’t have the satisfaction of watching the white ones change color.
Whereas a few of the wine will evaporate, removed from all of it’s misplaced in the course of the simmering, which is why you need to cook dinner with what you get pleasure from consuming. And the proportion misplaced will be changed by consuming a glass. You’ll be able to, after all, use any wine you want, but when you will discover some, I recommend travelling to Lazio and returning with a bottle crammed and merry with cesanese.
Spaghetti with crimson wine and onions
Prep 10 min
Prepare dinner 30 min
Serves 4
1 massive onion (ideally white or brown), or a bunch of spring onions
Salt
20g butter
3 tbsp olive oil
300ml crimson wine, cesanese for desire
2 tbsp grated parmesan, plus additional to serve
Black pepper
450g spaghetti
Peel and trim the onion, then slice it into half-moons. (For those who’re utilizing spring onions, trim off the darkest ends, then slice the bulbs and pale inexperienced elements.)
In a big, deep frying pan for which you’ve a lid, soften the butter with the olive oil over a medium-low warmth. Add the onion and a pinch of salt, stir, then cowl and go away to cook dinner down gently.
As soon as the onion is comfortable, add the wine and go away it to simmer for about 25 minutes, till the liquid has lowered and the consistency is creamy. Stir sometimes, and if at any level the combo appears dry, add extra wine or a little bit heat water.
Whereas the onions and wine are simmering, cook dinner the pasta till al dente, then elevate it immediately into the onion pan and toss energetically. Add two tablespoons of grated parmesan and some grinds of black pepper, and toss once more, including a little bit of the pasta water to carry all the things collectively. Serve instantly, passing spherical extra cheese for individuals who need it.
