In my world, panettone is the king of fruitcakes. At first look, it might not appear to be a cake in any respect, however panettone walks the road between a young, buttery cake, and probably the most enriched, yeasted dough you may think about, with a depth of taste you may solely obtain from loving, sluggish fermentation. I say “loving” as a result of there’s actually no different technique to describe the effort and time that goes into making panettone, however for these of us who sit eagerly by the oven door, watching with impatience and expectation as a magical transformation unfolds inside, there isn’t any larger reward.
In Italy, the phrase “panettone” is regulated by the federal government, very similar to Champagne is in France, with strict necessities about its elements and strategies. Butter, eggs, raisins, and candied citrus are nonnegotiable. As is the lievito madre (mom yeast), a stiff sourdough starter particular to panettone and different Italian grandi lievitati (actually “huge leavened”). Constructing and sustaining a lievito madre is not any straightforward activity (imagine me, I’ve tried!), requiring cautious feedings a number of occasions per day and storage in very particular temperature ranges and environments. Greatest to go away that to the professionals and the nonnas! As a substitute, I’ve labored out a panettone recipe leavened solely with industrial yeast that maintains the unique’s finest attributes: a pillowy-soft crumb, balanced sweetness, bursts of plump raisins, and vivid pops of candied orange peel.
This recipe takes a couple of day and a half to make, however most of that point is hands-off. I feel it’s useful to begin the method vivid and early, so that you aren’t mixing and baking into the night time. Weigh your elements for finest outcomes.
- Two 5¼- by 3¾-inch (134- by 95-millimeter) paper panettone molds
- Fantastic-mist spray bottle
- 4 steel or sturdy bamboo skewers, 12–14 inches lengthy (or lengthy sufficient to span the diameter of your cooling vessels)
- 2 giant pots, bowls, or containers not less than 6 inches deep and 10 inches large
Step 1: 8:00 a.m.—Make the biga.
Since we aren’t counting on an energetic sourdough starter to lift this dough, making a biga (an Italian type of preferment typically utilized in bread baking) helps construct an energetic yeast colony and contributes to the depth of taste within the completed product. It’s easy to make! Stir collectively the nice and cozy water, yeast, and bread flour till it comes collectively as a shaggy combination, then knead gently till it varieties a tender dough. Cowl and put aside at room temperature till doubled, about 90 minutes, then refrigerate till you’re able to make the primary dough.
Step 2: 1:00 p.m.—Make the primo impasto (first dough).
Panettone is historically constituted of two doughs, with a protracted fermentation in between, in an effort to be sure the yeast has sufficient time to multiply with out the sugar compromising its well being; an excessive amount of sugar directly would kill the yeast and stop the dough from rising. Make the primary dough (primo impasto) within the early afternoon. Mix the biga, heat water, yeast, flour, and egg yolk and permit the combination to hydrate. Then add the sugar, milk powder, and salt. Knead on low with the dough hook till the combination varieties a good dough earlier than including the softened butter just a little at a time. Whenever you’ve kneaded all of the butter into the dough, it will likely be tender, easy, and elastic. You may take a look at it by pulling what bakers name a “window pane,” stretching it between your fingers till it’s translucent; the dough ought to stretch with out tearing. When unsure, knead just a little longer.
Type the dough right into a ball and place in a 2-quart container in a heat spot, about 84°F, till tripled in quantity, then refrigerate for about 1 hour to chill barely earlier than you make the second dough.
When you wait, mix the honey, orange zest, and vanilla for the fragrant combination, and soak the raisins in scorching water to plump them up.
Step 3: 4:00 p.m.—Make the secondo impasto (second dough).
Return the primary dough to the mixer bowl together with the chilly water, yeast, egg yolks, flour, and very important wheat gluten. What’s very important wheat gluten, you ask? Panettone is usually made with a particular sort of extraordinarily high-protein flour that permits it to soak up giant portions of butter, stand up to lengthy, sluggish fermentations, and rise exceptionally excessive. Since panettone flour is troublesome to seek out, we’re including a small quantity of significant wheat gluten to traditional bread flour to extend its energy.
When the dough begins to return collectively, combine within the sugar just a little at a time, then preserve mixing till you as soon as once more have a easy dough. Slowly start including the butter, kneading till the dough is tender and elastic. Test it by pulling one other window pane. If you happen to thought the dough was spectacular earlier than, you gained’t imagine how stretchy it’s now.
Knead within the fragrant combination, adopted by the raisins and candied orange, then switch the dough to a evenly greased work floor and divide in half.
Step 4: 4:45 p.m.—Form the dough.
At first, the dough may appear impossibly tender, however shaping it into rounds will give it extra energy. Working with one piece of dough at a time, elevate the facet furthest from you off the work floor, letting it hold within the air. Decrease the dough again onto the floor, permitting it to fold over itself because it lands, then gently rotate a couple of quarter flip. Choose the dough up from the facet furthest from you as soon as extra and repeat three extra occasions. The dough will elongate much less every time you elevate it, till it varieties a good mound. Use the perimeters of your fingers, palms going through up, to softly rotate the dough alongside the work floor, rounding it and giving it rigidity.
With out inverting them, slip the rounds into the paper panettone molds in a single fast movement. Slide the molds into a big plastic produce bag and onto a small baking sheet, sealing the bag so the dough doesn’t dry out. Refrigerate in a single day.
Step 5: 8:00 a.m.—Proof the panettoni.
Within the morning, take the panettoni out of the produce bag and place on a rimmed baking sheet. Proof the panettoni till the dough peaks roughly ½ inch above the highest of the molds, about 6 hours.
Discovering a great place to proof your panettoni would be the hardest a part of this recipe. You’ll want a reasonably heat, humid spot, about 84°F, that may maintain its temperature for round 6 hours. An oven with the sunshine on or a bowl of scorching water on the oven ground is an efficient possibility, however you’ll wish to regulate the temperature to verify it doesn’t get too scorching or too chilly. Some ovens have devoted proofing modes; simply be sure it’s not too scorching, and think about including a bowl of scorching water to maintain the floor of the dough moist. Previously I’ve used a field with a heating pad or a big picnic cooler with a bowl of scorching water. For the diehards, there’s all the time the Brod and Taylor Folding Proofer. Now that I’ve one, I can’t dwell with out it!
If none of those choices be just right for you, you may proof the panettoni at heat room temperature (about 78°F), every tented with a big produce bag, however it is going to take considerably longer for them to rise—probably so long as 10 to 12 hours, relying on the precise temperature and humidity.
Step 6: 3:00 p.m.—Bake the panettoni.
About half-hour earlier than baking, place a rack within the heart of the oven and preheat to 350°F. Flippantly spritz the tops of the panettoni with water and sprinkle generously with pearl sugar.
Bake for 20 minutes, then decrease the temperature to 300°F. Resist the urge to open the oven to test on them; the panettoni are delicate at this stage, and the vibration of the oven door or the shock of chilly air might trigger them to fall. Proceed baking till an instant-read thermometer inserted into the middle reads 185°F, about 20 minutes (the panettoni are secure to test after15 minutes).
Step 7: 3:40 p.m.—Cool the panettoni.
Regardless of the high-strength flour and beneficiant time spent kneading, panettoni are extra cakelike than bready; left to their very own units, they will’t assist their weight whereas they cool. To maintain all of your onerous work from ending up a dense brick, we’ll take one other cue from the maestros and funky the panettoni the wrong way up. You’ll want two giant inventory pots or bowls not less than 6 inches deep, and 4 sturdy steel or bamboo skewers not less than 12 inches lengthy. Working shortly, as quickly because the panettoni come out of the oven, insert two skewers into every panettone, about 1 inch from the underside of the mildew. Invert over the vessels and put aside to chill fully. Watch out, steel skewers can get scorching as they go by way of the panettoni!
You may slice the panettoni as quickly as they’re cool, however I like to recommend letting them age for a day or two to let the flavour develop. Retailer the cooled, unsliced panettoni in sealed plastic baggage at room temperature for as much as two weeks. Sliced panettoni are finest loved inside just a few days.
