The open kitchen on the Japanese restaurant Soluna in Barcelona
I not too long ago had an unimaginable lunch at 1 Michelin-starred Yam’Tcha in Paris—160€ for the menu and 50€ for the tea pairing. A Maitre D in a three-piece go well with was available to hinge over the desk to elucidate and attraction. Shortly after that, I had lunch at Soluna in Barcelona. The Soluna menu is priced at 56€ and the costlier Competition menu at 89€.
The “make your personal handroll” at Soluna with native purple shrimp.
Although I reserved an early desk at 13:00. We had the restaurant largely to ourselves till we began dessert. Chef Teppei Nii is alone behind the island on the entrance of the restaurant and one waitress manages the eating room.
As with yam’Tcha in Paris, there is no such thing as a selection, solely lodging for allergy symptoms. Soluna is primarily a pescatarian restaurant, the exception being the supplementary Wagyu dish. The “fish is persistently distinctive” standing of Barcelona typically comes up in stark aid after I eat fish in different cities. A spot like Soluna is the proper place to expertise that. The Japanese strategy of treading thoughtfully across the delicate flavours of recent seafood works fantastically.
A solitary razor clam is on the 59€ menu at Soluna.
It begins with a small dish of tender sashimi, dotted with vibrant inexperienced spring peas and enormous flakes of salt. Miniature barely steamed Galician scallops are served on a wealthy puree in a bespoke plate the place the bowl is the depth and width of a beneficiant mouthful. A solitary razor clam is served on a high-glazed plate that’s evocative of the deep sea the clam got here from. It has been minimize into 4 segments so I don’t have to interact in an indelicate battle of tugging on the lengthy creature. (By the way, since I’ve hung out in Barcelona, Razor clams have change into my favorite clam.)
This being a Japanese institution, Katsuobushi flakes make an entrance. A complete symphony of them waving round like an enthusiastic viewers at a live performance. They embellish an impossibly crispy “pizza” as Soluna refers to it. And although it comes with a pizza slicer, the feel inside is of an omelette or savoury crème brûlée.
A beautiful trio of Sashimi at Soluna Barcelona
The trio of sashimi with minced tuna off to the facet is spectacular. It sits in gentle soy, a good-sized splodge of wasabi affixed to the facet like a barnacle on the hull of a ship. The squid is sliced up into an intricate lattice which renders it extremely tender. Squid sashimi is an efficient option to decide the ability of the chef, there is no such thing as a doubt that Nii is expert.
A heat principal dish reminds us that we’re in Catalunya and that it’s Spring with a young calçot propped up on the fish. Then, a make-your-own handroll arrives. The seaweed is dry and crisp however pliable sufficient that we are able to vogue it right into a makeshift roll. Inside there’s a tartar of native purple shrimp contrasted in opposition to a crisp confetti of freshly fried tempura. The decapitated head glowing brightly off to the facet.
It ends too quickly. With a strawberry shortcake of types. A crips disc of biscuit, dollops of custard, strawberries and a quenelle of glistening gelato.
Crispy savoury pancake “pizza” with dancing katsuobushi flakes.
That we are able to have a meal this achieved and nuanced at this value level is likely one of the many delights of Barcelona. Together with the truth that Soluna doesn’t require us to e book weeks upfront. The urge can seize you and you possibly can be sitting there just a few hours later. I like to recommend a seat on the bar, so you’ll be able to see it come collectively effortlessly.
Soluna Japanese Fusion
Carrer de Casanova 157
Eixample 08036
Soluna Instagram
www.solunabcn.com
Extra Japanese on Foodie in Barcelona
Ikoya, El Born (Oct 2022)
Sato i Tanaka, Eixample (Feb 2018)
Solar Taka, Eixample (Feb 2022)
